China!

Tuesday, October 24, 2017

And here we are, in the People’s Republic of China. After the persistent rains we experienced in Japan, we are grateful for a nice day. Our port is located in Tianjin, one of those “ghost” cities we’ve heard about, full of mostly empty high-rise apartment buildings with more under construction, and new highways with little or no traffic. We’re located a long drive from Beijing and, since we will be going to Beijing tomorrow, we’ve decided to stay close today and take to complimentary shuttle to the AEON Mall.

This bustling mall is surrounded by more high-rise apartment buildings some of which are empty. If this is any indication of China’s housing bubble it’s scary. We are told that private investors – of whom China has many – lease the land from the government and build these mammoth buildings. The apartments are bought by other investors for resale or, in some instances, for use by adult sons who manage to find a spouse (more about that later). The mall boasts high-end stores, a Starbucks, and an assortment of restaurants including several Japanese. Apparently sushi has found a receptive market in China over seventy years after the Japanese’ brutal occupation of the country in WWII.

The area around the port is eerily quiet – no traffic on brand new highways, no evidence of activity. The terminal building is large, new and shaped like a ship – quite beautiful – and empty. Our ship is the only one docked there. Unlike most cruise ports, this one contains no shops, no visitor information, no money changers.

Wednesday, October 25, 2017

                Today we began our 4-day overland visit in China. Our guide for the entire journey is Martin (his made-up name) Zhu. In China, the family name – Zhu – is followed by the given name. Chinese who interact with westerners create a western-sounding “first name.”

Martin is tall and good looking and, at 32, still unmarried, although he claims to have a girlfriend. This is significant because, due to China’s one-child policy, young people of marriageable age are having difficulty finding suitable – and willing – mates. It makes sense that a generation composed of indulged only-children who have also been encouraged to pursue education and careers will most likely be unwilling to make the compromises needed for a successful marriage. China has recently changed that policy to allow two children per family, but the impact of the one-child policy is already being felt on the workforce. As a result of too few workers coming into the force, China has lengthened the retirement ages from 55 for women and 60 for men to 62 and 65 respectively.

Martin is a member of the Communist Party – a status not available to everyone. Only party members can vote or hold office. He was quick to explain that the People’s Republic of China is not a communist government although it suppresses free speech (not his words). Google, Facebook, Twitter and most other social media sites as we know them are banned in China. Banking is government controlled as well. (In fact, a recent article in the NYT describes a recent government crackdown on underground banks used by wealthy Chinese to get money in excess of permissible limits out of the country.) And only party members are allowed to vote in both local and national elections.

 As we got closer to Beijing the traffic increased. At a checkpoint where all drivers had credentials checked, our guide told us that part of the government’s efforts to reduce traffic in Beijing (and help curb the horrific air pollution) is limiting the number of times a vehicle from outside the city may enter. Another feature of both the countryside surrounding Beijing and the city itself is an abundance of trees and tree farms. Fellow travelers who visited the city four-years ago told us this was new. We think it is also an effort to help curb the air pollution.

The air is as bad as we had heard. John and I took, and wore, masks, as did some of our fellow travelers and many of the people we saw. Temperatures are cool, yet the streets were filled with more motor bikes than cars. We were impressed with the cleverly designed “blankets” that the motor bike drivers used. Picture a quilt with sleeves to keep the drivers’ arms warm.

A little history about Beijing: “It is one of China’s four ancient capitals and has been a center of power for over 3000 years. During that time dynasties came and went, but the city protected its important landmarks, such as the Forbidden City, home of the imperial families, and the Temple of Heaven, an important 15^th-century temple. When Mao Zedong declared the establishment of the People’s Republic of China in 1949, it was from Beijing’s Tiananmen Square. This was also the location of anti-government protests in 1989. Beijing is China’s current capital and home to 11 million people (20 million in the metropolitan area).”

Our first stop in Beijing is the Temple of Heaven. Built in 1420, this walled temple complex is beautiful and amazing – both to see, and as a survivor of Mao’s Cultural Revolution when the people were told to destroy all that represented “old China.” According to Martin, this edifice survived because Mao’s second in command – and successor – Chou En Li, refused to destroy the temple and instructed the army to defend it against an attempt by the Red Guard to destroy it. Phew! I can only imagine what else might have been lost.

From the Temple of Heaven we traveled through the city, past the infamous Bird’s Nest Olympic Stadium commissioned for the 2008 Olympics. It was a foggy/smoggy day, so our view was limited. But even in the smog, it is an impressive structure. It is adjacent to the swimming/diving center. Neither of these facilities are used to capacity today.

Next we had a traditional Chinese lunch where all the food is placed on a lazy Susan and shared at the round tables. The table mates had to determine whether to spin clockwise or counter clockwise, exercise care that others were not serving themselves just as the food was on the move again. We noted that the food was not the traditional Chinese fare we have in the US. No fried rice, wonton soup, etc. We later discovered that what we call “Chinese” at home is more Cantonese than Mandarin.  

Our next stop is Tiananmen Square. Because the Congress was holding its annual meeting, at which the Chairman had just been reelected, security was tight and we were unable to walk onto the square. Instead we walked along and around it on our way to the Forbidden City. The massive floral displays along the edge of the square were impressive and beautiful – as well they should be because all of the country’s most important and powerful people were gathered there.

If anyone has seen the movie, The Last Emperor, he/she will recognize sections of The Forbidden City. According to our guide, that last emperor continued to live in the City after he was deposed where he worked as a gardener. The buildings are amazing and the place is well preserved. We enter the complex at one end and traverse its length, stopping at various buildings along the way such as the main living quarters, the concubines’ living quarters, etc. At the end, just outside the wall, is a lovely garden area where we noticed a group of people who seemed to be at a networking event. Turns out, it was a group of parents with photos and credentials of their unmarried adult children, looking for prospective mates on their children’s behalf. It’s a type of low-tech dating site. Although arranged marriages are no longer common in China, parents, desperate for grandchildren, use these informal gatherings to arrange for meetings between potential couples. If you remember the earlier mentioned buyers of apartments in those empty building, these are usually purchased by parents of sons because it is the responsibility of the man’s family to provide housing for the couple.

After checking into our hotel – the Sheraton Grand Beijing, a five-start luxury hotel that certainly surpasses any Sheraton we have ever experienced in the States – we were treated to a Peking duck dinner at the Quanjude Restaurant. Delicious. Then back to the hotel for a nightcap and a good sleep.

To be continued…

Sayonara rainy Japan

October 22, 2017

Since leaving Kushiro, we have visited six consecutive ports and endured rain for all but one stop. Today we’re at sea on our way to China. Although the sun is shining the seas are rough as we sailed through or around Super Typhoon Lan overnight. Lan is expected to hit Tokyo today, so we got out of Japan just in time.

October 15 – 16: Yokohama/Tokyo

Rain, rain and more rain. My image of Yokoham and Tokyo is people with umbrellas. On the 15^th we took a shuttle provided by the Yokohama Retail Association to Yokohama station and a huge mall complex anchored by Takashima, a high-end department store akin to Saks in NYC. It was Sunday, so the area was crowded with lots of shoppers. We had a nice, delicious lunch. The price of a glass of iced tea was $7 – Japan is pricey.

The lower level of the department store was a not-to-be-believed food court where every type of food can be purchased. We found one display composed entirely of vinegars, and a shop that sold every price-range of sake. After tasting a couple we bought a bottle for personal consumption aboard ship. Apparently all the department stores have extensive food courts in their lower levels.

This evening the same retail association treated us to a Japanese sake tasting reception and drum performance on the ship. If we completed a questionnaire we received a traditional Japanese patterned “Sensu” present – a fan made in China.  

The next day (10/16) we took a tour – Best of Tokyo. Tokyo is the center of everything in Japan. It’s metropolitan area population of 32 million is more than 10% of the total population in Japan. After a very long bus ride through Yokohama/Tokyo Monday morning traffic, we visited the Imperial palace with its lovely grounds and famous Nijubashi Bridge. Then we were taken to the Ginza district, Tokyo’s high-end shopping street, for an hour of shopping, followed by a forgettable buffet lunch. Our final stop was at the Kannon Temple, an ancient shrine with a five-story pagoda/monastery adjacent. Again, the rain dampened (pun intended) what should have been a memorable day.

I’m not sure what I expected but these two days did not leave me with a sense of anything special about these two cities – just ordinary large cities with rather bland architecture. Our tour guide enlightened us about the proper use of the honorific “san” and how to use a Japanese toilet. These highly technical facilities offer the user the option of a bidet spritz, and even music to obscure the sounds. BTW, the heated seats are a plus.

October 17: Shimizu

Another rainy day in this small, but charming, port. We had a short day here and spent most of our time in the terminal building taking advantage of the free wi-fi. We saw a demonstration of kimono wearing, where I had an interesting conversation with a woman who rued the fact that her parents never taught her how to wear a kimono, so she could not teach her daughter. Such a shame that certain Japanese traditions are not being preserved. We also saw an interesting exhibit of local marine life, including a spider crab that grows to a span of two meters. Talk about your crab legs!

Prior to sailing we were treated to Geisha show. The kimonos and dances were lovely, although I am amazed at how those women can kneel down and get up again effortlessly. ;-)

The weather cleared enough for a special sayonara as we prepared to sail away. A group of pre-teens gave us a wonderful Japanese drum show. We were gathered on the promenade deck and gave them a rousing ovation. Then, as we pulled away from the dock, we received a traditional bow from the drummers, a cheer from the pink-hatted primary school children, and fire-works! (No, they were not missiles from North Korea.) I wish we could have spent more time in Shimizu.

Tonight was kimono night, so many were decked out in kimonos – some purchased especially for this event. I wore my grandmother’s kimono that my uncle brought back from Japan after WWII.

Kimono Night on the Amsterdam

October 18: Osaka

Hooray! Sunshine! We set off today to visit the Osaka Castle. If you saw the mini-series Shogun, you might recognize Osaka Castle. As one of Japan’s most famous landmarks, it played a major role in the reunification of Japan during the 16^th century and remained a power center for the country until WWII. It is surrounded by a large moat contained by massive stone walls. A watch tower guards the entrance. The castle has been destroyed and rebuilt numerous times and, although the exterior looks much as it always has, the interior is totally modern, complete with elevators. Thus the site does not qualify as a world heritage site. The museum, however, tells an interesting story of the castle’s history and, if one wishes, one can pose as a Samurai with full armor for a photo op.

                                                                 Osaka Castle

We also visited the Shitennoji Temple – the oldest Buddhist temple in Japan built in 593 AD. Most of the site has been reconstructed numerous times. However, one of the gates still standing dates back to 1294. The original religion of Japan was Shinto. When Buddhism was introduced, complete with its emphasis on education and health, this temple was built to include a school for girls and a hospital. 

The grounds are extensive. We were able to step inside a space where Buddhist monks were chanting, and roam the grounds, which include carefully raked gravel areas, a turtle pond, and a sacred area where people can have the names of their loved ones printed on special tablets and added to the natural spring. We were not allowed to photograph that area. When a loved one dies he/she is given a posthumous name different from his/her name in life. Just a reminder, Buddhists do not worship Buddha as a deity, but they try to live by his teachings. During his lifetime, Buddha did not allow images of himself to be built. That has changed since his death to satisfy the demand for reminders of him and his tenets.

                                                                 Outside the temple

                                                             At the turtle pond

On a side note, we learned that the Portuguese – the first westerners to visit Japan – were expelled, along with their priests, due to the Emperor’s fear that the conversion to Christianity was endangering the Japanese cultural values. And so, Japan became a closed country again until the arrival of the Dutch, who only cared about trade, not conversion.

October 19: Beppo 

By the end of the day in Osaka, the rain had returned and it continued in Beppo. This small volcanic town was added to the itinerary when we were prevented by China from stopping in South Korea. It is the largest hot spring resort in western Japan, backed by Mt. Tsurumi and Mt. Yufu. On a clear day, I’m sure it is quite picturesque. Unfortunately, we did not have a clear day. We did not avail ourselves of trips to the hot springs, or the opportunity to be buries in hot sand. We did, however, take the shuttle to the center of town and walk around a bit. The most memorable part of our trek was the cross-walk signal that played “Comin’ Thru the Rye” when it was safe to cross.

October 20: Hososhima

More rain prevented us from really enjoying the setting and beaches of Hososhima (Hyuga Cape). Although some among our acquaintances did journey up the mountains for cliff-top views of the ocean and towns, those views were mostly obscured by clouds.

October 21: Kagoshima

Our final, and favorite, stop in Japan, Kagoshima is a mid-sized city with a downtown that looks like what we expected to see in Japan. The architecture, though modern, retains the look of old Japan. At a shopping & dining center on the port we found a busy flea market as well as a “foot bath” with water warmed by the volcano.

Kagoshima was the castle town of Lord Shimadzu during the 14^th century. The Shimadzu clan ruled over Kagoshima for 29 generations (almost 700 years), before the Meiji Restoration in 1868. This is where Japan’s first contacts with the outside world occurred – first with China, then the western world (probably Portugal). St. Francis Xavier brought Christianity to Japan in 1549.

We had a brief respite from the rain, but by the time we boarded the shuttle back to the ship it had started raining again. As we sailed away from Kagoshima, we were warned to expect heavy seas and to “batten down” anything movable and breakable in our cabins as we were sailing into the tail end of Typhoon Lan. The next day Lan hit Tokyo, but we were well to the south sailing to China.  

     

                                                           Downtown Kagoshima

Inside the shuttle bus going back to the ship. The buses in Japan are all equipped with fold out aisle seats to accommodate maximum number of people.

Sailing, sailing: From San Diego to Kushiro

October 1 – October 13

We sailed October 1 from San Diego. Our departure was delayed over three hours due to difficulties getting the luggage loaded and delivered to cabins. Because our cabin number had changed since our bags were collected September 18, one of our bags was delivered correctly to our new cabin, two to our original cabin and one somewhere else. However, by the end of the day we were reunited with all four of our bags. During that time, three bags belonging to someone else who had originally booked our current cabin were erroneously delivered to us. And so we were underway.

The itinerary called for us to be at sea six days before our first port of call in Dutch Harbor, Alaska. Unfortunately the weather in Dutch Harbor prevented us from docking there and so onward we sailed to Japan. Eleven days at sea – the most we had ever experienced – before we finally arrived at Kushiro, Japan on Hokkaido Island.

Life at sea isn’t bad. Lots of things to do aboard and/or lots of places to hide and just read or nap. I joined a total body conditioning class that meets every day at 5:00 p.m. The instructor is a personable young man from South Africa who guides us through planks, curls, presses, jumps and any number of other difficult and painful activities. By the end of the 30-minutes we are breathing heavily and sweating. Oh, and there is occasional pain. But, as they say, what doesn’t kill me makes me stronger.

During our voyage we crossed the International Date Line, which put us almost a day ahead of our home time zone. For us, Monday, October 9, did not exist in 2017. There was a palpable sense of anticipation among guests and crew as we neared our first dry land in almost two weeks. Kushiro, the “town of mist” certainly lived up to its name as we approached in thick fog. The ship kept sounding its fog horn and, somehow, the pilot boat was able to find us and take us into port. However, by the time we got ashore the sun had come out and the temperature had reached the high 50s.

Japan has the most stringent entry requirements we have ever experienced – even more stringent than Israel. We were assigned group numbers. As our group was called we presented ourselves with passports and completed entry documents before a customs/immigration official who checked our credentials, fingerprinted us and took our photos. We are required to keep our passports with us at all times while ashore – another difference from other countries we have visited.

Kushiro isn’t the biggest city on Hokkaido, but has long been considered an important port and the cultural capital on the eastern part of the island. We passed up the tours to the near-by Kushiro Marsh National Park and the Kushiro Tancho Nature Park in exchange for walking about in the city and visits to the Washo Fish Market, where we saw the largest octopus tentacles we have ever seen, and the Fisherman’s Wharf Shopping Mall. The city itself isn’t what one might call “picturesque” and the streets seemed very empty – especially considering we were there on a Friday.

Just prior to leaving we were entertained by a group of young women performing hula dances. We are not sure why. We were also serenaded by a man who had achieved some level of recording success in Japan. He wasn’t too bad. Then, as we pulled away from the dock a small group waived orange flags to see us on our way.

Now we are on our way to Yokohama/Tokyo where we’ll be docked for two days. 

Getting ready

September 24, 2017
This time next week we will be boarding the MS Amsterdam for our 80-day cruise. Our luggage left last Monday (9/18) and should be in the warehouse ready to load on October 1. We managed to score American Airlines miles for our 9/30 flight from Pittsburgh to San Diego via Dallas. We'll spend the night in San Diego. We got good news this week - a veranda cabin was offered at an 84% discount so we upgraded from the booked ocean view to a vista suite for hardly any extra money.

Here is a map of our voyage. After 5 days at sea we will stop at our first port of call - Dutch Harbor, Alaska. Then on to Japan, China, Hongkong, Vietnam, Singapore, etc. Check back here October 7th for news of our first stop.